In general, I declare jihad against vegan dishes that attempt to imitate meat. It’s mostly psychological. Faux meats never live up to the taste expectations aroused by the words “steak” and “chicken”. Anyone who eats Tofurkey with the memory of “turkey” running along their taste buds is in for the letdown of a lifetime.
I was shocked last week when I dug into a dish at Seattle’s Plum Bistro and my first thought was, “Mmmm…steak.” The dish was Double-Dipped Seitan. For the uninitiated, seitan is vital wheat gluten. I swear that’s not as disgusting as it sounds; it’s actually tastier and heartier than tofu, when done right. And Plum Bistro does it right, cooking the “steak” to perfection until it has a crisp, golden exterior. No, it didn’t taste like dead cow – but the texture and experience were equivalent, at least. And it did taste damn good, which I’m convinced has as much to do with Plum’s decision not to saddle this dish with the “steak” label as with the culinary talents of Chef Makini Howell.
I had the pleasure of meeting an online friend for the first time at Plum. It turned out that we had intersecting food peculiarities: she’s gluten-free, and I’m vegan. In Seattle, that’s a sweet overlap. Most of our hippier-than-thou eateries, such as Chaco Canyon Cafe and the amazing Flying Apron Bakery, cater to both sets of dietary refugees. The only down side of the get-together? I didn’t take any pictures of the meal, out of fear that the person I’d just met would think I was a total, irredeemable dork. Given the lighting, I imagine my iPhone wouldn’t have captured anything more tantalizing than a dark blob shrouded in pixels anyhow. So I stole the photo for this post from The Stranger. (Thanks, guys. Don’t sue me. Love ya!)
If you live in Seattle, or visit our fair city, you should give Plum a go, even if you’re a committed lifelong eater of things with faces. Be warned that it’s “affordable upscale”: main courses start at around $13, but top out at around $19. Great for a date or a night out with friends, but not a place you’d visit three nights a week. For cheap vegan sandwich fare, visit Plum’s sister store, Hillside Quickie, in the University District.
